livingdeb: (Default)
The physics

Because I know there are three dimensions, I put my hard-boiled eggs through the egg slicer three times, in positions that made the slices at right angles to the previous cuts. (The first cut makes slices, the second cut turns those into rods, the third cut turns those into cubes.)

Okay, technically I probably learned this from my mom, but I remember it because of physics.

The egg salad

Recently I've been scooping out the yolks first so I could smash them up nice and smooth, mix them with the mayonnaise, mustard, and spices, and then cut up the whites as best I could and mix it all together.

This time I went back to putting the whole egg through the slicer. This was much easier than just trying to cube the egg whites and it came out plenty smooth enough. Today's recipe, which I like, had:

eggs
mayonnaise and yogurt in about a 2:1 ratio
mustard (much less)
garlic powder (some)
onion powder (lots)
paprika on top

Post of the Day - Raptitude's Go Deeper, Not Wider - "I keep imagining a tradition I’d like to invent. After you’re established in your career, and you have some neat stuff in your house, you take a whole year in which you don’t start anything new or acquire any new possessions you don’t need. ... You improve skills rather than learning new ones. You consume media you’ve already stockpiled instead of acquiring more. You read your unread books, or even reread your favorites. You pick up the guitar again and get better at it, instead of taking up the harmonica. You finish the Gordon Ramsey Masterclass you started in April, despite your fascination with the new Annie Leibovitz one, even though it’s on sale." This should be much easier for people like me and my readers who have been collecting activities for a very long time.
livingdeb: (cartoon)
Many plumbing realities don't make sense to me.

Shower dangers

You know that thing where you're taking a shower and someone turns on a sink or flushes a toilet somewhere else in the house or perhaps the hotel room next door suddenly your shower is too hot? I think I get that. Some of the cold water in your carefully calibrated water flow has been diverted, so ouch.

What I don't get is why this never happens in my house. It's awesome. Apparently I have a remarkable feature known as good water pressure. I do not live at the bottom of a hill or anything. I don't know how I got this, but I love it.

Dinosaurs

Sometimes we used to get weird noises for which the technical term may be "dinosaurs in the pipes." Apparently when air gets trapped, these noises happen and you have to flush the system. Or something. I really don't get it. Are the pipes always sitting around full of water? I guess so. Except not drain pipes.

Dissipating hot water

Before starting my shower, I turn on the hot water in the bathtub. It comes out cold, which I understand--the water in the pipe between the water heater and the tub has cooled down. So I have to wait for the water from the water heater to push that out of the way until the freshly heated water arrives.

While I'm waiting, I'll sometimes do something else like brush my hair out, and so I don't just blast it but keep it on low. Slowly, the water turns itself into a trickle, and then maybe even completely off. I don't get that. I have not drained the water heater; the water is still cold even.

Increasing water volume

Shortly after we got our new water heater, we also got a new kitchen faucet.

I had a style that Robin refers to as "trailer house" and we haven't been able to find a good replacement until recently. We found an adequate replacement at the Habitat Re-Store a while back, but eventually decided to use only the hot water side because the cold water side was too hard to turn off.

But it got to where we couldn't turn the cold water off at all, so Robin looked again and found a replacement in a style he refers to as "restaurant." The store selling it calls it a wall-mounted swivel faucet. You can see a picture at Webstaurant Store.

This worked out great, but sometimes when we turn the hot water on, it turns itself on more and more. I can watch the lever moving. Sometimes it can go from a tiny trickle to blasting (and maybe more, but I'm afraid to wait any longer). It's hard to rinse your dishes when you can use only one hand so you can control the water flow with the other hand. This happens only sometimes, and only with the hot water.

Robin theorizes that the water pressure is so great that it can turn our now smoothly moving faucet handle. Maybe as it gets older and stickier, this problem will go away.
livingdeb: (Default)
PV cells

The photovoltaic (PV) cell is the basic unit of solar arrays. Most are made of silicon which is made as pure as possible and then doped with boron on one side and phosphorous on the other. The boron side faces the top where the sunlight (photons) enter. It has excess electrons which are given off when the photons hit it. The phosphorous side is starving for electrons and is attached to a back layer. A wire run from the front to the back can power something.

The first PV cells were made of a slice of a single silicon crystal. This crystal cannot be cut at right angles and still preserve its important properties, so it is typically shaped like a square with the corners cut off. These cells have an efficiency of 20%. These are still the most popular and have been seen to work for 50 years. These have the highest cost per watt.

PV cells can also be made from multiple slices fused together. These are cheaper to make but are a little less efficient (13 - 16%). They can be cut at right angles and are generally rectangular. These are newer but have still been seen to work for 20 years. These cost less per watt.

Panels

PV cells are put together in rows and columns into modules (panels). Monochrystalline silicon modules are dark blue with gridlines and white diamonds (where the corners were cut off). Polychrystalline silicon modules are a brighter blue with thicker gridlines.

Modules can also be made from a thin film of either amorphous silicon with no chrystalline structure (A-Si), or Cadmium-Telluride (Cd-Te) or CIGS among other things. These are still less efficient (6-7%). These have the lowest cost per watt but require more area and much more wiring. They are flexible and see-through so they can be used for windows, awnings, and skylights. And they work better in shade than the other two types. The Cd-Te and CIGS types have no silicone which was good during the period when refining capacity was maxed out, but more capacity has since been built.

Panels are strong. All can handle 1-inch hail at 60 mph; most, golfball-sized hail at 90 mph. They are stronger than a composition shingle roof. Baseball-sized hail can take it out, though. But this can be covered by homeowner's insurance. Modules do degrade by about 1/2% efficiency per year. Maintenance is easy and involves hosing them down occasionally.

Racking

Most (90%) systems are roof-mounted and of these, 90% are flat-mounted. They are attached to rails which, in turn, are attached to the roof. For composition roofs, bolts must go through the roof into the rafters (load-bearing joists) with a lag bolt to protect against the wind. Flashing or neoprene mastic is then used to protect the roof from leaks.

Solar panels can also go on Spanish tile roofs, but it's very labor intensive (takes three times as long) and involves pulling up most of the tiles. They are easiest to install on standing-seam (metal) roofs because they can be attached directly to the seams with no roof penetration at all.

They can also be pole mounted (expensive, but you get free shade) or ground mounted (cheap, but probably doesn't work in urban settings because of shade problems and because you probably have other uses for your ground). You can put them on carports and solar awnings.

Steel racking leads to expansion issues (solar panels are framed in aluminum) and rusting. It's much better to use extruded aluminum designed for solar panels. It costs a tiny bit more at first, but then it will be trouble-free.

Conduit

The wires must go through metal (not PVC) conduit and this must be on top of your roof (not in your attic). This is to protect firefighters who might need to climb on your roof and chop through it with an axe at which time they do not want to connect with your electricity.

DC disconnect

There's a place to turn off the power.

Inverter

The inverter converts the DC current from the panels to the AC current used in your house.

This is the weakest link in the system. Therefore, make sure you get one with at least a 10-year warranty. (SMA is best. Fronius is also great and a little cheaper.) Inverters hate the sun. Therefore, it's good to install yours in the garage and terrible to install it on a south-facing wall. They can actually handle heat up to 120 degrees, but they are not good with direct sunlight. At the very least, put an awning over it.

AC disconnect

There's another place to turn off the power which our instructor called expensive and pointless. The idea is that repair people can easily find this box and turn it off, but in reality they never actually use these boxes. That's probably because grid-tied systems are designed to stop producing power in blackouts and brownouts to protect repair workers.

[It is possible to build a hybrid system with a bypass to batters to run the fridge and other critical things--not the air conditioning, but it's expensive ($1000 - 3000 just for the batteries) so it would be better to get a whole-house generator ($400 - $500 for a 4 kW generator) if you want power during blackouts.]

PV meter

The inverter actually has a meter, but it can be 5% off. Therefore, grid-tied installations also have a revenue-grade meter.

Electric panel

The system is tied to your panel. It needs two slots at the bottom (with your main/grid power at the top). If you install a solar panel system, your electrical system will have to be brought up to code. (I can tell based on various things that people laughed about in class that our 55-year-old electrical system would require a fair amount of work in this area.)

Utility Meter

Grid-tied systems are connected to your meter.

Questions

I had a few additional questions when I went in that were also answered.

What happens with the solar panels outlast the roof? Solar installers are hired to disassemble the system, then roofers can re-roof the house, then the solar installers reassemble the system. (I put in 30-year composition tiles, expected to last 23 years in Austin, 14 years ago. I want my next roof to be metal so that it is also my last roof. I should probably wait until I do that before installing solar panels.)

Can you mix and match module types, say, to put film panels in the oft-shaded areas and more efficient panels in the other areas or to add on to your system? Not really. Being in series, they need to have the same current. However, you could put them on different inverters.

Any other questions? Ask me, I might actually know the answer.

Blog entry of the day especially for my vocabulary lovers: Manly Slang from the 19th Century - "Gullyfluff. The waste—coagulated dust, crumbs, and hair—which accumulates imperceptibly in the pockets of schoolboys." I think fraeuleinchen will like most of them, such as scandal-water: "Tea; from old maids’ tea-parties being generally a focus for scandal." Raaga123 might like follow-me-lads, "Curls hanging over a lady’s shoulder." Chikuru might like hobbadehoy, "A youth who has ceased to regard himself as a boy, and is not yet regarded as a man." I think I like bully trap, "A brave man with a mild or effeminate appearance, by whom the bullies are frequently taken in."
livingdeb: (Default)
Robin and I went to an informal class on designing and installing solar panel systems this weekend. We are not now prepared to actually install a system, but we learned a fabulously huge amount of stuff that will help us make good decisions when/if we hire someone to do this.

The first presenter, Doug Soester (pronounced SOY-ster) gave us an amazing amount of information at all levels from basic physics to what he thinks about state-of-the-art microinverters.

Shade

If you're interested in getting a solar system, you will need accessible shade-free areas. Generally, you are looking for a portion of south-facing roof that is free of shade from 9 am to 3 pm (or at least six solid hours) every day of the year. Ruinous shade may be cast by nearby buildings, trees, your chimney, or even your vent pipes.

You can get a quick and dirty measure by looking at your roof at 9 am, noon, and 3 pm on a clear winter day (even as late in the year as right now). You can get a perfect measure on any day during daylight hours using a Solar Pathfinder at all potential points of your rooftop. Its domed lid reflects all potentially shade-causing items. The chart beneath shows you which times of day during which parts of the year these obstructions will be causing shade at the spot where you're standing. It's totally cool and totally $200.

Solar panels are typically connected in series, like Christmas tree lights. If even one part of one panel is shaded, your total output could be reduced by over 80%.

Orientation

Ideally, your solar panels are always facing the sun. In real life, look for the best fixed location. Facing due south is a compromise between morning and afternoon sun positions that produces the maximum daily energy yield. But if you are selling excess electricity to your local power company and if they charge more during peak periods (as Austin might start doing in about 2 years), a more westerly direction will maximize your profits. Any orientation within 45 degrees of due south is acceptable by incentive programs.

The sun's path is lower in the sky in winter than in summer. Facing the same angle as your latitude (30 degrees in Austin) is the compromise that maximizes total energy production. But since energy costs tend to be higher (here, anyway) in summer than in winter, you might want your angle to be a bit flatter to maximize profit. In summer, 15 degrees is ideal in Austin. In practice, most systems are flush-mounted, and you will go with whatever your actual roof angle is. Your panels can be installed at a different angle, but a structural engineer will have to get involved to make sure that wind uplift doesn't become a problem. Also, you don't want the uplifted ends of some panels shading any of your other panels. Anything from 0 to 50 degrees can work.

So long as your orientation and tilt lead to energy production within 90% of optimal (or 80% in some places), your project can qualify for incentives.

Panels

How many panels can you fit in your space? Panels are generally installed in rows along a single surface, each panel having a portrait rather than landscape orientation. Panels are typically 80 watts and about 2 feet by 4 feet.

Yield

Now that you know these things, you can estimate what your cost savings would be using PV Watts calculator (use version 1). You need to enter the size of your system (typically 3-4 kW), your orientation, your roof's pitch, your location, and the amount your utility charges per kWh.

Incentives

Our city has a rebate program, our state is about to have some kind of program, and I think there may be federal tax incentives. In my town, the payback period is down to about 10 years. Our city will let us run the meter backward, but for any month one produces more energy than one consumes, we get paid only the fuel charge rate for the energy. Different parts of the country have vastly different economic factors.

My house

I have no idea what part of the roof is shaded--the two closest trees have come down, so it's less than before. We have extremely little south-facing roof, probably not enough for a single panel, so we'd probably go with a west-facing roof (if there aren't too many vent pipes). I think the instructor said that the roof angle of a typical ranch house has a pitch of 20 degrees. My preliminary guess is we could get a system with an efficiency of 89% of ideal. We get lots of sun here, but prices are low. I need to do more research.

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