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As part of my quest to read things set in different countries, I am now reading Lyn Hamilton's Archaological Mystery series. This week it was The Moche Warrior.

Childish antique store owner finds her co-worker bleeding when she comes back to the shop looking for her keys, then a room explodes revealing a dead man. She ends up going to Peru for clues on who the real murderer/thief/arsonist is. There she works on an archaeological dig near a ceramics factory and commune. Lots of characters and plot twists keep it interesting, even if I want to grab and shake some of the characters sometimes. Plus I learned a bit about Peru.


Central squares

All Peruvian towns have a central square called the Plaza de Armas (Wikipedia says this means "literally Weapons Square, but [is] better translated as Parade Square or parade ground.")

Food

"If there is a national dish in Peru, I decided, it was chicken, pollo. There are as many pollerias in Peru as there are pizzerias at home." (sic - pollerías)


Transportation

"I hailed a colectivo, that particularly Peruvian mode of public transit, a private minibus or van that plies a regular route, a sign in its front and side windows indicating its destination. In addition to the driver, there is an assistant who opens the sliding door and signals the number of empty seats with his fingers. The van barely stops to pick you up and drop you off, but it's cheap, and it gets you there." Sounds easier to deal with than Ghana's tro-tro.

"The flight to Trujillo [from Cuzco] had been uneventful, unless you count playing bingo rather than watching a movie an event, and I found the Vulkano bus station without difficulty. A bus trip in that part of the country, apparently, is an exercise in participative democracy. Passengers preoccupied themselves with shouting instructions to the driver, telling him he was lingering too long at any given stop, or that he wasn't driving to their particular specifications."


Geography

"Peru, it seemed to me, was a land of geographic extremes, from the world's driest desert, the Atacama in the south [the same desert where Chile can produce the cheapest solar energy on the planet]; to some of the richest ocean waters, teeming with marine life, created by the cold Humboldt from Antarctica and the warmer Pacific current coming south; to the Andes, the world's second greatest mountain range. In this part of the world, there are no foothills. You could crawl out of the Pacific, cross a few miles of arid desert, and come upon a wall of rock rising almost vertically from the desert floor. Beyond that is the rain forest, in some case, in others huge grassy plateaus and jagged valleys.

"The area is unstable, geologically speaking, with the oceanic Nazca plate sliding under the South American continental plate at a rate that, while imperceptible to us, is the fastest tectonic activity anywhere. It is this action that created the Andes and an extraordinarily deep ocean trench off the coast. It is also the reason for a geological instability that results in bad earthquakes on a reasonably regular basis and sporadic volcanic activity."


Lima

"For about nine months of the year, the city is blanketed in a grey pall that consists of mist from the sea, the garua, and pollution from millions of cars and factories. It is a damp, gritty greyness that burns your throat and lungs and eyes, and oozes its way into your soul.

"Lima also, to my eyes at least, has the air of a city besieged. Every building, every parking lot, is watched by at least one guard, some of them armed. Restaurants have guards to watch over patrons' cars while they dine; a home with even the slightest hint, a mere whiff of wealth, has a twenty-four-hour civilian guard. Children are escorted to and from school.

"And there is something to fear, make no mistake about it." Terrorists and the desperately poor.

"Perhaps to compensate, Limenos have painted their city the most astonishing hues, colors to banish the greyness and anxiety: sienna, burnt umber, cobalt, and the purest ultramarine, and shades the color of ice cream, soft pistachio, creamy peach, French vanilla, and café au lait."


The Inca

They called their empire "Tahuantinsuyo," Land of the Four Quarters. "At the time of the first European contact with the Americas, Tahuantinsuyo was the largest nation on earth."


The Moche

The Moche is a pre-Incan culture I'd never heard of. They had beautiful, intricate vases, ear jewelry, and other artifacts. They had a system of canals from the mountains to the desert lands with administrative centers in the river valleys. They "had a complex social structure, with an elite, a warrior class, artisans, and commoners; they practiced elaborate rituals, many of them involving human sacrifice; buried their most important citizens with treasures that rival the Egyptians; and had a vivid mythology, tantalizing hints of which remain."

"Their cities held the largest adobe brick structures anywhere, anytime."

The "Moche were the first in this part of the world to use [pottery] molds, that the most common form of Moche pottery were vessels that had spouts in the shape of stirrups, and how it was possible to date the pottery, particularly in the southern part of the Moche empire, by the length of the spout and the type of lip on it." (The Metropolitan Museum of Art has pictures of Moche Decorated Ceramics.)

Drought plus flooding and mudslides led to the culture's demise.


Spanish vocabulary

I ran into these Spanish words:

* huaca - sacred place originating before the Inca, literally "sacred"

* huaquero - tomb raider, robber of sacred places

* garúa - drizzle

* pachamama - earth mother (Andes)

* pacha - baby's bottle (Central America)

* ambulantes - "people who come in from the shantytowns to hawk candy and drinks on the sidewalks"

* colectivo - collective, group; also shared taxi (Andes), bus (Argentina, Paraguay, Venezuela)

* chifa - Chinese restaurant (Andes)

* fulana - tart, prostitute (colloquial, pejorative)

* alfajores - "sublime little shortbread sandwiches with a sweetened condensed milk filling" (SpanishDict says in Latin America it's a round cookie with sweet filling but in Spain it's a sweet almond pastry.) (Recipes show they are soft and made with more cornstarch than flour.)

* mancha - stain

* algarrobal - ground planted with carob trees (algarroba = carob)

Supposedly one of the locations was called Nowhere Hacienda, but really it was called Drizzle Hacienda, so I looked up how to say "nowhere" because it seems like a basic word I should know but don't and it's "ninguna parte."


Additional Related Articles

I've decided that when reading books set in other countries to consider doing extra research on some aspect of what I'm reading. This time, I decided to learn more about the pottery (see link above) and huacas (what does that mean--sacred place?).

* "Huaca" (Wikipedia) (read 7/6/17) - A huaca is "an object that represents something revered, typically a monument" either natural or man-made all around Peru. "Since pre-incan times the people developed a system of pilgrimages to these various shrines" and the "Incas elaborated creatively on a preexisting system of religious veneration of the peoples whom they took into their empire."

* "Huaca" (Britannica) (read 7/6/17) - A huaca is a "religious concept that is variously used to refer to sacred ritual, the state of being after death, or any sacred object. The Spanish conquistador Pedro de Cieza de León believed that the word meant “burial place.” Huaca also means spirits that either inhabit or actually are physical phenomena such as waterfalls, mountains, or man-made shrines. The aforementioned shrines, which are found throughout the Inca territory from Ecuador to Chile, may be as simple as stones piled in a field (apachitas) or as complex as stepped pyramids that were once topped with canopies and carved images."

* "Huacas in Cuzco" (Cuzco Eats) (4/20/12) (has pictures) - Huacas are sacred spaces, usually boulders or masses of rock "where the ancestors paid homage and venerated their deities [and] ... where the ancient mummies could be placed and also honored." "Huacas are also famous for being the place in which offerings and sacrifices were made. As a result, they were plundered during the first years of the Spanish invasion. Afterwards the Spaniards destroyed many of them since they considered them heresies against the Christianity they wished to implant. In fact trees and bushes were often planted in front of them to try to impede people from visiting these holy shrines. Today eucalyptus trees surround many of them even though they did not come to Peru from Australia until more recent times."

The main one in The Moche Warrior was surrounded by carob trees, which apparently have some pretty nasty spines.
livingdeb: (cartoon)
I'm not married, so I haven't had to decide for sure whether I would change my last name. I do kind of like the idea of everyone in the family having the same last name, just because it makes things easier for other people.

But what would my whole name be? First Middle NewLast? First OldLast NewLast? I decided I like the idea of First Middle OldLast NewLast (two middle names) and if I married multiple times, I would keep adding the new names on to the end. At least so long as I still liked the people attached to my old name.

But what if the groom had some horrible last name like Roachbutt (not a real last name I've ever seen)? Or what if he had a last name that sounded ridiculous with my first name, like Bippert? Maybe I would think twice.

One cool thing is that my maiden name is very common, short, easy to spell, and has no connotations, so it's safe. I figure if the groom had a long, hard-to-spell or -pronounce name that he was sick of dealing with, he could change his name to my name instead of me changing my name to his.

Apparently, that notion is pretty alien in my country.

I just read (in Bustle and Working Mother) that 70% of US adults think that a woman should change her name and half think it should be illegal for married women to keep their last names. I am horrified and irrationally enraged by this statistic.

Apparently, the main reason people give is that changing one's name "prioritizes their marriage and their family ahead of themselves."

So many reactions:

* Making it the law would mean that people who change their names are prioritizing following the law ahead of themselves, not prioritizing the marriage. If you make it illegal, you lose this easy way to figure out who the selfish people are.

* I don't see how my name has anything to do with how I treat my other family members.

* Does it just go without saying that men are also prioritizing their marriages? Or do they not have to?

* What about same-sex marriages--I guess these people are opposed to them and think they should be illegal and so the point should be moot. But I thought we finally had a majority of people not being opposed to them.

I feel like everything I was raised to believe about my country that makes it great was wrong. My parents and all my schools (yes, including ones in Florida and Houston suburbs, not just the ones in California and Chicago suburbs) taught me that freedom was important here.

But apparently, only freedom for property-owning Puritan men was important. And the rest of us can just be their slaves.

No, that's not it either. Even white property-owning religious men should not be free to become women, to marry men, to wear eye shadow, to question their church, to show fear or sadness, or to break HOA rules about too-tall grass, visible laundry lines, the wrong paint color, etc. Even they have to fit into a one-size-fits-all culture in this "ideal" world.

Obviously, names are not that important in the grand scheme of things and it's not like I even picked my current name. But like I said, my emotions reared.

(And now I'm thinking about irrational reactions. I'll change my name to the opposite of his--that will show them! My current boyfriend has a last name that means bald. So I'll change mine to a last name that means hairy. So ha!)

On Kenya

Nov. 23rd, 2016 04:03 pm
livingdeb: (cartoon)
In my continuing quest to experience media from every country, I picked up Michael Burgan's Kenya, another installment of the fabulous Enchantment of the World series (2015). FYI, I'm barely discussing any of the depressing stuff.

Kenya is about the size of Texas, and, like Texas, it has a coast in the east (the Indian Ocean), and some mountains and deserts. But it also has rain forests, waterfalls, and volcanos, and it borders the "world's largest permanent lake located in a desert," Lake Turkana, at the northern end of the Great Rift Valley, created by two tectonic plates moving away from each other. It also borders Lake Victoria as do Uganda and Tanzania.South Suday, Ethiopia, and Somalia are in the north. It's on the equator and so is warm (though cooler at the higher elevations--Mount Kenya sits right on the equator and has ice year-round).

The first humans lived in this part of Africa where Kenya is. Four thousand years ago, migrants speaking Cushitic languages raised goats and farmed. Later, people speaking Bantu and Nilotic languages arrived.

In the 400s, traders from all around the Indian Ocean and as far away as the Middle East and China came to trade and influenced the foods, language, and religion of Kenyans, leading to the Swahili language and culture in the 1000s. Swahilis joined in the trade and Swahili is still an official language and the coastal city Mombasa is still the second-largest city.

In 1498, Vasco Da Gama arrived from Portugal (Malindi still has a stone pillar he erected in friendship). In 1505, Portuguese invaders began looting and killing. By 1729, the Swahilis, with their Arabic allies, had pushed out the Portuguese.

In 1844, the first European missionary arrived and European explorers began mapping the interior. In 1884, the Europeans began dividing up Africa amongst themselves, and decided that the British got most of Kenya and Uganda. Theirs was no benign rule, making people work, kicking them off their land, killing resisters, and making men carry kipande or identity and employment documents with them at all times. They built a railway to help them transport things from Uganda to the coast. This is when the capital and largest city, Nairobi, was created, and English is still an official language.

Kenya gained independence in 1963, but there were conflicts between different ethnic groups. Corruption still runs rampant, and people don't trust the elections.

In 2010, a new constitution and bill of rights were introduced. Unlike the US's bill of rights, Kenya's "also guarantees such things as access to food, housing, and water."

About 3/4 of Kenyans work in agriculture, usually on small plots of land, but there are also large coffee and tea plantations for export. Fishing is also important, mining is growing, and petroleum was discovered in northern Kenya in 2012. They also make "cars, plastic goods, clothing, chemicals and medicines, paper and paper products, and electrical equipment" mostly for domestic use. Sandals made from old tires "last about ten times longer than traditional shoes." And the "largest part of Kenya's economy is the service sector ... [including] banking, education, health care," and sales.

Kenya has the strongest economy in East Africa. Tourism is now a big part of the economy and large parts of the country are preserved as national parks. That includes Mount Kenya and a stretch of coral reefs along the coast. Kenya has all of 'Africa's "Big Five"--the five land mammals said to be the hardest to kill"--the elephant, cape buffalo, rhinoceros, leopard, and lion. In 1977, Kenya banned hunting of all creatures except some birds. So now safaris are just for pictures. In the desert, they have camels, used mostly for milk rather than carrying things.

Internet usage is growing (39% in 2013). "Safaricom, the nation's leading cell service provider, is one of the nation's most successful businesses." And "M-Pesa, the world's leading mobile money system, is used by two-thirds of the adults in Kenya" to deposit paychecks, withdraw cash, pay rent, buy groceries, and transfer money to anyone with an M-Pesa account.

"All together, Kenyans speak about sixty different languages, and most people speak at least three." There are still many different ethnic groups such as the Kikuyu (1/4 of the population) from around Mt. Kenya, the Luhya (near Lake Victoria and Mt. Elgon), the Luo (also near Lake Victoria), the Kalenjin (western Rift Valley), Maasai (grasslands of southern Kenya), the related Samburu (plains north of Mt. Kenya), and the El Molo (the smallest group with less than 1000 members). Only 1% are of non-African descent. "After 1963, most of the whites gradually left the country." Refugees from Somalia and Sudan are settling in refugee camps and Nairobi.

From Swahili:
* hakuna matata = no problem
* simba = lion
* uhuru = freedom
* Kwanzaa is 'from the phrase matunda ya kwanza, which means "first fruits."'

Most Kenyans are Christian (47% Prostestant, 23% Roman Catholic), some (11%) are Muslim. Most Christians were converted by other Africans. "This gave Africans a lot of power in shaping how Christianity was adopted locally. It also led to the creation of many local churches that mixed traditional African beliefs with mainstream Christian faiths."

The literacy rate is 87%! Like every country but the US, they like soccer. They are also famous for having fast runners.
livingdeb: (cartoon)
We had a section in our text about Spanish names, but it's described very well and somewhat amusingly in a few paragraphs in James Michener's Iberia so I'll give you that quote below. (I'm adding more paragraph breaks to make it easier to read.)

A word about Spanish names. To explain the tradition fully would require many pages, for it is unbelievably complicated, but ideally every Spaniard, male or female, has two surnames [last names], the first and more important being the father's and the second the mother's. Thus Pedro Pérez Montilla can properly be referred to as Señor Pérez Montilla or simply as Señor Pérez, but to refer to him as Señor Montilla would be a real gaffe.

Spanish also has the handy little words Don and Doña, which have no equivalent in English and cannot be translated; they are used only preceding a given name [first name], allowing one to refer to a man or woman by the given name with no presumption of intimacy. Thus our friend can be called Don Pedro or Señor Don Pedro Pérez Montilla.

When he [our friend] married, let us say to Leocadia Blanco Alvarez, his wife did not surrender her surnames but merely added his, preceded by the preposition de (of), so that her name became Señora Leocadia Blanco Alvarez de Pérez Montilla, and she may properly be addressed as Doña Leocadia, or as Señora Blanco, or as Señora Blanco Alvarez, or as Señora Blanco Alvarez de Pérez Montilla, or as Señora de Pérez Montilla.

Frequently the paternal and maternal surnames are joined by either a hyphen or an y (and), which means that Don Pedro’s son could be named Antonio Pérez Blanco, or Antonio Pérez-Blanco, or Antonio Pérez y Blanco, although in recent years the last has become less frequent.

Many Spaniards today, in common usage, simply omit the maternal surname entirely or abbreviate it to a single letter. On the other hand, if Don Pedro and Doña Leocadia belong to the nobility or the aristocracy (or if they want to put on airs) the son will adopt the name Señor Don Antonio Pérez Montilla y Blanco Alvarez.

The problem is further complicated when a man has a family name which is unusually common and a maternal name which is less so, for then he becomes known by the more distinctive of his two names, which is only sensible. The five most common Spanish surnames, in order of frequency, are García, Fernández, López, González and Rodríguez, and just as the Englishman named Smith or Jones is accustomed to adding a hyphenated second name, such as Smith-Robertson, so the Spaniard becomes García Montilla, sometimes with the hyphen.

It is in conformity with this custom that the great Spanish poet Federico García Lorca is so often referred to simply by his maternal name. Anglo-Saxon readers encounter difficulties with the names of such historical figures as Spain’s two cardinals who exercised political leadership, Mendoza and Cisneros; in history books you will find many pages about them, and they were at least as famous as Richelieu in France and Wolsey in England, yet if you try to look them up in a Spanish encyclopedia you will find nothing unless you happen to know that the former was born Pedro González de Mendoza and the latter Gonzalo Jiménez de Cisneros. In each of these instances, however, the distinctive name is not maternal but merely a place name added in hopes of making a common name distinctive.

So far I have discussed only the simple cases; the complicated ones I had better skip.

In a small Spanish city to which a friend had sent me a postal money order I had a rueful introduction to this problem of names. My friend had assured me by phone that the money had been sent, and the post office had advised me that it had arrived and that upon presentation of my passport it would be paid. Accordingly, I went to the post office, but before telling the clerk my name, handed him my passport. He studied it, consulted his file of incoming money orders and said, ’Nothing here.’ I explained that I knew it was in hand, so with much politeness he searched his papers again and said, ’Nothing here.’ This time I noticed that he was looking at the A file, so I suggested, ’Perhaps if you look in the ...’

'Please, Señor Albert,’ he said. ’I know my business.’

In my passport he had seen that my name was James Albert Michener and he was smart enough to know from that who I was, and he had no cash for any Señor Albert. When I tried to explain what my name really was he became angry, and I was not able to get my money until Spanish friends came from the hotel to the post office and explained who I was. When the money was paid, the clerk took my passport again, studied my name and shook his head. When he handed back my papers he said, ’I am sorry for your inconvenience, Señor Albert.’


--Michener, James A. Iberia: Spanish Travels and Reflections. (1968) Random House: New York, pp. 41-42.

Our text describes many countries rather than just Spain and was published in 2012. It says the the double-surname tradition is practiced in many, but not all, Latin-American countries. The way this is described does not perfectly match what Michener wrote.

For example, "When a woman marries in a country where two last names are used, legally she retains her two maiden surnames. However, socially she may take her husband's paternal surname in place of her inherited maternal surname. For example, Mercedes Barcha Pardo, wife of Colombian writer Gabriel García Márquez, might use the names Mercedes Barcha García or Mercedes Barcha de García in social situations. ... Adopting a husband's last name for social purposes, though widespread, is only legally recognized in Ecuador and Peru." - Blanco, José A. and Philip Redwine Donley, Late. Vistas: Introducción a la Lengua Española (4th ed.) (2012) Vistas higher Learning: p. 86.

Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanish_naming_customs, 6/4/16) says that in Spain, "gender equality law has allowed surname transposition since 1999, subject to the condition that every sibling must bear the same surname order recorded in the Registro Civil (civil registry), but there have been legal exceptions." And then "In an English-speaking environment, Spanish-named people sometimes hyphenate their surnames to avoid Anglophone confusion or to fill in forms with only one space provided for last name."

The article also says they might have a first and middle name like we do (and go by either informally), though that would be called having a composite (vs. simple) forename rather than two names. "Legislation in Spain under Franco legally limited cultural naming customs to only Christian (Jesus, Mary, saints) and typical Spanish names (Álvaro, Jimena, et al.)." But now "the only naming limitation is the dignity of the child, who cannot be given an insulting name. Similar limitations applied against diminutive, familiar, and colloquial variants not recognized as names proper, and 'those that lead to confusion regarding sex." Wow. But "[a]lthough the first part of a composite forename generally reflects the gender of the child, the second personal name need not (e.g. José María Aznar)" and they can go by either name, so maybe their second name can be gender neutral.

Another interesting thing in the article is that -ez endings can mean "son of" (Hernández = son of Hernando, Sánchez = son of Sancho), implying things were done differently in the past.

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